Distance: 32.42 km

Elevation Gain: 1,494 m

Total Time: 10 hours 24 mins

In July 2024 I set off on backpacking trip in Banff National Park.  The goal was to camp at Egypt Lake for 2 nights.  I had been looking for a trip that would take me two days and would provide beautiful views.  I found this one.  This campsite books up FAST in January so I felt very lucky that I had snagged this reservation.

I camped at Tunnel Mountain in Banff the night before so that I could be up and out early the next morning.  I arrived at the trailhead around 9:30 and was on the trail around 10am. 

The biggest objective in the beginning is to get up to Healy Pass.  It is just under 10km to the pass and approximately 700m of elevation gain.  With a 30lbs bag on my back, this took me awhile! It was also pretty hot that day – mid 30’s!  (Celsius of course.)

There were a lot of people on this trail.  I saw probably 40 (!) people on my way up to Healy Pass.  A few people commented on my backpack, saying it looked heavy.  It felt heavy at that point! I originally felt pretty nervous doing this trail solo but with all the people I came across, it helped quell some anxieties.

Although there were a lot of people on trail, I also went through sections surrounded by berry bushes.  The berries were lush and ripe – perfect for the picking!  I didn’t pick any but I now there are certain mountain creatures that love these snacks.  Consequently, this trail is one that gets bear warnings frequently.  In fact, when I got back to my car after two nights, there was a bear warning up.  A grizzly had been seen snacking on those very berries. Be prepared to make noise and have bear spray! I was lucky enough not to see any on my adventure.

Just before Healy Pass, you come out of the forest and reach the alpine wildflower meadow.  This was beautiful!  After the long steady uphill I had been facing, this burst of colors rejuvenated my spirits.  I kept thinking that I wish my garden or front yard at home looked like this.

Once you reach Healy Pass, you are greeted with a stunning 360 degree view of the mountain range both before you and behind.  I was again in awe of the magesty.  You can’t see another human settlement anywhere.  You feel truly in the wilderness.  Not quite alone as there were at least 10 people on the pass with me.  Most people get to the pass and turn around after a little snack.  Not me.  I continued on and quickly descended to Egypt Lake.

You pass by a ranger lodge (it appeared that no one was home) and cross a river.  There were two ladies filling water bladders by the bridge so I assumed I was close to camp.  That was in fact the water source for the campground.  The campground is about 800m away from the lake itself.  I chose a campsite in an open meadow area so that I would not be off on my own.  As this was my FIRST solo backpacking trip in the mountains, I wanted people around me.  I was nervous about bears and other creatures in the mountains.  Part of the reason I picked this campground was because it is booked completely solid for most of the summer.  I would not be alone.

Once I set up my campsite, I put my “smellies” into the bear locker and took a trip to Egypt Lake. 

It is gorgeous. 

The water is a beautiful turquoise and the surroundings mountains still have snow on them.  The quiet was immense.  I was a little disappointed that I was so far away from the lake, but I wasn’t surprised.  Reviews of the trail beforehand had already mentioned the distance from the lake.  And I suppose you don’t want people run-off getting into such a pristine alpine lake.

The next day, after a fitfull sleep listening to all the slight rustles and creaks of the forest around me, I decided to hike up to Scarab Lake.  I wasn’t confident in my abilities to get to Pharaoh Peak by myself so I chose the lake instead.

It is a pretty steady incline up to the lake but it was not long – 200m gain and 3km. 

When I reached the lake, I was completely alone.  The spider webs across my hiking path had already hinted that I was the first one up here this morning.  There was a glacier still floating in the water, so very peacefully.  The water perfectly mirrored the opposite peak.  I saw two bald eagles flying and calling to each other.  The must of had a nest in the forest just to the left of the lake. I set up my chair and watched.  

I sat and watched for almost an hour.  I didn’t move from my perch on the lakeshore.  I didn’t see another soul.  Occasionally I would clap my hands and look behind me into the forest to make sure no large animals were surprised by my presence.  But I saw nothing – humans or large forest mammals. 

I think of that time to this day.  The peacefullness.  The quiet.  How restoring that aloneness felt.  I would feel momentarily scared of being alone, but then I would remember to breathe and calm would come over me.  I remained aware of my surroundings but I refused to let anxiety control the moment.

That was probably one of the most calming places I have ever been.

After awhile I decided to head back down.  I had such a serene time, I wanted to spend more time at Egypt Lake. 

At Egypt Lake, I took a quick dip in the glacier water to cool off from the 30 degree day before setting up my chair to sit and watch the world.  

I sat for half an hour on the shoreline, watching.  No eagles here.  Two men joined me on the shoreline for awhile.  They ate their lunch and chatted about their hike from Ball Pass Junction campground.  I sat in silence.  We both enjoyed the afternoon in our own ways.

I made my way back to camp and read my book for a little while before making supper and heading to bed. 

One thing I realized on this trip was that I was allowed to spend my time how I wanted.  I could stop at a lake if I wanted.  I didn’t have to get to the peak if I didn’t feel confident enough.  I didn’t have to hike farther up if I didn’t want to.  I could spend my time doing what I wanted.  I could spend my time sitting and listening.  I could spend my time observing, resting, and rejuvenating. 

The next day, I packed up and hiked out.  The hike back held it’s own surprises.  I did not expect my feet to be as sore as they were on the way back.  Carrying a heavy backpack and heading downhill was a different strain than what my feet had been used to the last two days.

I met a bachelorette group on my way back.  About 15 middle aged women all making their way up to Healy Pass!  I enjoyed briefly chatting with them.  It reminded me of my bachlorette party where we drove to Jasper for the day, hiked up Old Fort Point, had supper in Jasper and drove home the same day.

All in all, I learned a lot about myself.  I completed my first solo mountain backpacking trip.  I was able to keep myself safe.  I learned while I enjoy the challenge of getting to these places, I also enjoy the quiet rest.  I learned the downhill can be just as demanding on my feet as the uphills.  I learned that I could do this.  I could do this hard thing and come out the other side better for it.

What did you learn about yourself on your backpacking trip?